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[Financial Friday] What You Need to Know About Private Student Loans

It’s an unfortunate trend in college pricing–the average cost of tuition and fees at four-year public and private institutions are significantly higher than they were just a decade ago. For example, the average published tuition and fee price of a full-time year at a public four-year institution is 40% higher, after adjusting for inflation, in 2015-16 than it was in 2005-06. (Source: Trends in College Pricing, College Board, 2015) As a result of these rising costs, many individuals have to rely on student loans to help fund their college education.

What You Need to Know About Private Student Loans

Will I have to take out private loans to finance my college education?

What can be surprising to many first-time student borrowers is how little federal student loan debt they may be allowed to take on. Currently, the maximum amount students can borrow for college in federal Direct Stafford Loans is $5,500 during their first year, $6,500 during their second year, and $7,500 during their third and fourth years. (Source: Federal Student Aid, U.S. Department of Education, 2015)

In most cases this amount is not nearly enough to cover the cost of attending a four-year college, and many student borrowers must look to private student loans to help close this gap. And while taking out private loans to pay for college is a fact of life for many individuals, there are some important questions you’ll want answered before taking out these types of loans.

What is the interest rate on the loan?

Private student loans tend to have higher fixed interest rates than federal Direct Stafford Loans. However, depending on the lender, you may be able to choose a loan that offers a lower variable interest rate.

Keep in mind that with a fixed rate, the interest rate remains the same from the day you take out the loan until the day you pay it off. With a variable rate, your interest rate may initially be lower than a fixed rate but then will be adjusted periodically to keep up with changes in market conditions. If your interest rate rises, your monthly payment and/or the number of payments required will increase.

What repayment options are available?

Unlike federal student loans, which offer repayment programs such as pay as you earn, income-based repayment plans and student loan forgiveness, private lenders are not required to offer specific repayment assistance to borrowers struggling to make payments.

However, most private student loan companies do offer limited forms of repayment options, such as loan forbearance or extended repayment schedules. The types of repayment programs offered will vary from lender to lender.

Is a co-signer required?

Some private lenders may require borrowers to have a co-signer guarantee a loan, especially if a borrower has little or no credit history. Having a co-signer may also help you obtain a lower interest rate for your loan and improve your chances for loan approval.

The good news is that the co-signer doesn’t necessarily have to be tied to the loan forever. Most lenders will allow borrowers to apply for a co-signer release after a certain number of on-time payments have been made and other loan conditions have been met.

Are the terms of the loan favorable?

As a result of recent increased regulatory scrutiny surrounding private loans, many of the larger lenders have improved the lending process by offering more attractive loan terms.

For example, certain lenders have eliminated “auto defaults,” which is when a co-signer dies or declares bankruptcy and the lender demands that the loan be paid back immediately by the borrower. Others have made the process for obtaining a co-signer release easier and more transparent. Loan costs, discounts, terms, and conditions can differ greatly, depending on the lender. It’s important to thoroughly research each potential lender and carefully compare all offers before signing a loan agreement.

Are other financing options available?

When it comes to using private loans to pay for college, student borrowers should try to graduate with the least amount of private student loan debt possible. It’s generally a good idea to exhaust all federal student loan options and avoid taking out loans for the maximum amount that is offered by private lenders unless absolutely necessary.

Additional financing options should also be considered, such as:

  • Parent PLUS loans
  • Grants or scholarships
  • Parent/family loans
  • State-sponsored student loan programs
  • Part-time employment
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[Financial Friday] Six Common 401(k) Plan Misconceptions

Do you really know as much as you think you do about your 401(k) plan? Let’s find out.

I love my 401k!

1. If I leave my job, my entire 401(k) account is mine to keep.

This may or may not be true, depending on your plan’s “vesting schedule.” Your own contributions to the plan–that is, your pretax or Roth contributions–are always yours to keep. While some plans provide that employer contributions are also fully vested (i.e., owned by you) immediately, other plans may require that you have up to six years of service before you’re entitled to all of your employer contributions (or you’ve reached your plan’s normal retirement age). Your 401(k)’s summary plan description will have details about your plan’s vesting schedule.

2. Borrowing from my 401(k) plan is a bad idea because I pay income tax twice on the amount I borrow.

The argument is that you repay a 401(k) plan loan with dollars that have already been taxed, and you pay taxes on those dollars again when you receive a distribution from the plan. Though you might be repaying the loan with after-tax dollars, this would be true with any type of loan.

And while it’s also true that the amount you borrow will be taxed when distributed from the plan (special rules apply to loans from Roth accounts), those amounts would be taxed regardless of whether you borrowed money from the plan or not. So the bottom line is that, economically, you’re no worse off borrowing from your plan than you are borrowing from another source (plus, the interest you pay on a plan loan generally goes back into your account). But keep in mind that borrowing from your plan reduces your account balance, which may slow the growth of your retirement nest egg.

3. Because I make only Roth contributions to my 401(k) plan, my employer’s matching contributions are also Roth contributions.

Employer 401(k) matching contributions are always pretax–whether they match your pretax or Roth contributions. That is, those matching contributions, and any associated earnings, will always be subject to income tax when you receive them from the plan. You can, however, convert your employer’s matching contributions to Roth contributions if your plan allows. If you do, they’ll be subject to income tax in the year of the conversion, but future qualified distributions of those amounts (and any earnings) will be tax free.

4. I contribute to my 401(k) plan at work, so I can’t contribute to an IRA.

Your contributions to a 401(k) plan have no effect on your ability to contribute to a traditional or Roth IRA. However, your (or your spouse’s) participation in a 401(k) plan may adversely impact your ability to deduct contributions to a traditional IRA, depending on your joint income.

5. I have two jobs, both with 401(k)s. I can defer up to $18,000 to each plan.

Unfortunately, this is not the case. You can defer a maximum of $18,000 in 2015, plus catch-up contributions if you’re eligible, to all your employer plans (this includes 401(k)s, 403(b)s, SARSEPs, and SIMPLE plans). If you contribute to more than one plan, you’re generally responsible for making sure you don’t exceed these limits. Note that 457(b) plans are not included in this list. If you’re lucky enough to participate in a 401(k) plan and a 457(b) plan you may be able to defer up to $36,000 (a maximum of $18,000 to each plan) in 2015, plus catch-up contributions.

6. I’m moving to a state with no income tax. I’ve heard my former state can still tax my 401(k) benefits when I retire.

While this was true many years ago, it’s no longer the case. States are now prohibited from taxing 401(k) (and most other) retirement benefits paid to nonresidents. As a result, only the state in which you reside (or are domiciled) can tax those benefits. In general, your residence is the place where you actually live. Your domicile is your permanent legal residence; even if you don’t currently live there, you have an intent to return and remain there.

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[Financial Friday] Can you separate college financial aid myths from facts?

For all you parents out there, how knowledgeable are you about college financial aid? See if you know whether these financial aid statements are myth or fact.

Can you separate college financial aid myths from facts?

1. Family income is the main factor that determines eligibility for aid.

Answer: Fact. But while it’s true that family income is the main factor that determines how much financial aid your child might receive, it’s not the only factor. The number of children you’ll have in college at the same time is also a significant factor. Other factors include your overall family size, your assets, and the age of the older parent.

2. If my child gets accepted at a more expensive college, we’ll automatically get more aid.

Answer: Myth. The government calculates your expected family contribution (EFC) based on the income and asset information you provide in its aid application, the FAFSA. Your EFC stays the same, no matter what college your child is accepted to. The cost of a particular college minus your EFC equals your child’s financial need, which will vary by college. A greater financial need doesn’t automatically translate into more financial aid, though the more competitive colleges will try to meet all or most of it.

3. I plan to stop contributing to my 401(k) plan while my child is in college because colleges will expect me to borrow from it.

Answer: Myth. The government and colleges do not count the value of retirement accounts when determining how much aid your child might be eligible for, and they don’t factor in any borrowing against these accounts.

4. I wish I could estimate the financial aid my child might receive at a particular college ahead of time, but I’ll have to wait until she actually applies.

Answer: Myth. Every college has a college-specific net price calculator on its website that you can use to enter your family’s financial information before your child applies. It will provide an estimate of how much aid your child is likely to receive at that college.

5. Ivy League schools don’t offer merit scholarships.

Answer: Fact. But don’t fall into the trap of limiting your search to just these schools. Many schools offer merit scholarships and can provide your child with an excellent education.

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[Financial Friday] What are required minimum distributions (RMDs)?

Traditional IRAs and employer retirement plans such as 401(k)s and 403(b)s offer several tax advantages, including the ability to defer income taxes on both contributions and earnings until they’re distributed from the plan.

what are required minimum distributions rmd

But, unfortunately, you can’t keep your money in these retirement accounts forever. The law requires that you begin taking distributions, called “required minimum distributions” or RMDs, when you reach age 70½ (or in some cases, when you retire), whether you need the money or not. (Minimum distributions are not required from Roth IRAs during your lifetime.)

Your IRA trustee or custodian must either tell you the required amount each year or offer to calculate it for you. For an employer plan, the plan administrator will generally calculate the RMD. But you’re ultimately responsible for determining the correct amount. It’s easy to do. The IRS, in Publication 590-B, provides a chart called the Uniform Lifetime Table. In most cases, you simply find the distribution period for your age and then divide your account balance as of the end of the prior year by the distribution period to arrive at your RMD for the year.

For example, if you turn 76 in 2016, your distribution period under the Uniform Lifetime Table is 22 years. You divide your account balance as of December 31, 2015, by 22 to arrive at your RMD for 2016.

The only exception is if you’re married and your spouse is more than 10 years younger than you. If this special situation applies, use IRS Table II (also found in Publication 590-B) instead of the Uniform Lifetime Table. Table II provides a distribution period that’s based on the joint life expectancy of you and your spouse.

If you have multiple IRAs, an RMD is calculated separately for each IRA. However, you can withdraw the required amount from any of your IRAs. Inherited IRAs aren’t included with your own for this purpose. (Similar rules apply to Section 403(b) accounts.) If you participate in more than one employer retirement plan, your RMD is calculated separately for each plan and must be paid from that plan.

Remember, you can always withdraw more than the required amount, but if you withdraw less you will be hit with a penalty tax equal to 50% of the amount you failed to withdraw.

 

 

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[Financial Friday] Give Your Retirement Plan an Annual Checkup

Financial professionals typically recommend that you review your employer-sponsored retirement savings plan annually and when major life changes occur. If you haven’t revisited your plan yet in 2015, the end of the year may be an ideal time to do so.

Give Your Retirement Plan an Annual Checkup

Reexamine your risk tolerance

This past year saw moments that would try even the most resilient investor’s resolve. When you hear media reports about stock market volatility, is your immediate reaction to consider selling some of the stock investments in your plan? If that’s the case, you might begin your annual review by reexamining your risk tolerance.

Risk tolerance refers to how well you can ride out fluctuations in the value of your investments while pursuing your long-term goals. An assessment of your risk tolerance considers, among other factors, your investment time horizon, your accumulation goal, and assets you may have outside of your plan account. Your retirement plan’s educational materials likely include tools to help you evaluate your risk tolerance, typically worksheets that ask a series of questions. After answering the questions, you will likely be assigned a risk tolerance ranking from conservative to aggressive. In addition, suggested asset allocations are often provided for consideration.

Have you experienced any life changes?

Since your last retirement plan review, did you get married or divorced, buy or sell a house, have a baby, or send a child to college? Perhaps you or your spouse changed jobs, received a promotion, or left the workforce entirely. Has someone in your family experienced a change in health? Or maybe you inherited a sum of money that has had a material impact on your net worth. Any of these situations can affect both your current and future financial situation.

In addition, if your marital situation has changed, you may want to review the beneficiary designations in your plan account to make sure they reflect your current wishes. With many employer-sponsored plans, your spouse is automatically your plan beneficiary unless he or she waives that right in writing.

Reassess your retirement income needs

After you evaluate your risk tolerance and consider any life changes, you may want to take another look at the future. Have your dreams for retirement changed at all? And if so, will those changes affect how much money you will need to live on? Maybe you’ve reconsidered plans to relocate or travel extensively, or now plan to start a business or work part-time during retirement.

All of these factors can affect your retirement income needs, which in turn affects how much you need to save and how you invest today.

Is your asset allocation still on track?

Once you have assessed your current situation related to your risk tolerance, life changes, and retirement income needs, a good next step is to revisit the asset allocation in your plan. Is your investment mix still appropriate? Should you aim for a higher or lower percentage of aggressive investments, such as stocks? Or maybe your original target is still on track but your portfolio calls for a little rebalancing.

There are two ways to rebalance your retirement plan portfolio. The quickest way is to sell investments in which you are overweighted and invest the proceeds in underweighted assets until you hit your target. For example, if your target allocation is 75% stocks, 20% bonds, and 5% cash but your current allocation is 80% stocks, 15% bonds, and 5% cash, then you’d likely sell some stock investments and invest the proceeds in bonds. Another way to rebalance is to direct new investments into the underweighted assets until the target is achieved. In the example above, you would direct new money into bond investments until you reach your 75/20/5 target allocation.

Revisit your plan rules and features

Finally, an annual review is also a good time to take a fresh look at your employer-sponsored plan documents and plan features. For example, if your plan offers a Roth account and you haven’t investigated its potential benefits, you might consider whether directing a portion of your contributions into it might be a good idea. Also consider how much you’re contributing in relation to plan maximums. Could you add a little more each pay period? If you’re 50 or older, you might also review the rules for catch-up contributions, which allow those approaching retirement to contribute more than younger employees.

Although it’s generally not a good idea to monitor your employer-sponsored retirement plan on a daily, or even monthly, basis, it’s important to take a look at least once a year. With a little annual maintenance, you can help your plan keep working for you.

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